On the sweltering August streets of metropolitan Washington, sandals, short skirts and halter tops are seemingly de rigueur. Bare-legged women in the summer’s latest chiffon miniskirts crowd the Metro platform during rush hour. Yet not all women in the area are baring their arms and legs in the heat. The Washington area’s diverse population includes Muslim women who follow the rules of Islam in their clothing choices, no matter how high temperatures soar. Many cover their arms, legs and neck in all seasons, and many cover their hair with a headscarf, or hijab. Read full article > >

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Muslim women shop for modest clothing in steamy summer

Key menswear from two Daiki Suzuki-designed labels’ latest collections Heritage-inspired clothes having established their stake on men’s style, certain labels stand out for their attention to the details that even the most observant vintage-obsessed guy can miss. Engineered Garments and Woolrich Woolen Mills have set themselves apart with an impressive dedication to minutiae and a willingness to put unexpected twists on the classics from which both lines draw influence. Being fans of both labels, we were lucky enough to get a special preview of Oi Polloi’s buy from both collections, making us eager for warmer weather and new looks. Engineered Garments’ Field Parka nears a technical wear apex with a bevy of buttoned pockets in all the places you’d expect and some that you wouldn’t, like on the sleeve and on the parka’s back. The sleek covered belt and tonal hardware prevent the jacket from looking too intimidating, keeping the focus on functionality that just happens to look great. The Trail Parka by Woolrich Woolen Mills represents a marked contrast to the EG Field Parka, bearing a much more minimal and casual air. Eschewing visible buttons on the flap pockets at the chest and waist gives the jacket a cleaner silhouette. Available in a subdued shade of green, the Trail Parka is also available in a rich gold color. Noted similarities between the brands are due to the fact that both are designed by cult icon Daiki Suzuki, whose involvement in the heritage menswear scene dates back to the late 1980s, when Suzuki would regularly purchase American vintage clothing in the U.S. for resale in Japan. Having shepherded both his own line and Woolrich Woolen Mills to menswear greatness, Suzuki is relinquishing design duties for the latter to another respected industry figure, Mark McNairy. With more time on his hands, Suzuki could very well dedicate more time to surfing, which the designer has stated is one of his favorite hobbies. The inspiration from his aquatic pastime is clear in both collections, but nowhere better expressed than in the WWM Camp Shirt, a subtle short-sleeve with enough flair to carry an entire outfit. The small floral print looks interesting enough from afar, but it takes getting up close to appreciate the intricacies and variety of shades. Perfect for the Hawaiian vacation you’re finally getting to take or continuing to dream of, the shirt is our favorite item from both collections. These and other items will be available starting Wednesday, 2 March 2011, from Oi Polloi .

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Spring Style at Oi Polloi

Handmade, super-cute knit products from a renaissance woman It’s a rare thing these days to find a fashion label that truly stands out for originality and design. It’s even less common to find one that is not only made locally but also made by hand by the name behind the brand. ALL Knitwear is lovingly made by Annie Larson, a blogger and knit enthusiast, in her Minneapolis shop. We caught up with Larson for a chat about knitwear, color and tangible inspiration. Who is behind the label? ALL knitwear is a one-woman operation. I launched the label and online shop in April 2010 and have updated the selection seasonally since then. All of the pieces are made-to-order by me within two weeks of the order being placed. In addition to producing each piece, I manage all of the photography and website administration. I write every email personally to each customer—it’s always me on the other end! What’s with the name, ALL? A.L.L. are my initials, standing for Annie Lee Larson. It also doubles as a description for what you can expect from the label, it’s all knitwear! Where do you source design inspiration? I visit many corners of the Internet for daily doses in fashion and culture. I am often inspired by people and personalities and places. I have suddenly become interested in magazines again, craving more tactile inspiration. Where do you produce the knitwear? In my storefront studio in Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA. I have a Brother 910 Electroknit knitting machine, which uses mylar sheets and a special pencil to graph the patterns I use in my designs. Every morning, I wake up at 7:30am, drink coffee, eat oatmeal, write emails, and then knit for the rest of the day. I like to link the pieces together in the evening because it’s a quiet activity and it feels right then. Where are you stocked and what’s next for you? Currently I am stocked by Dagmar Rousset in Melbourne, Australia, as well as my online store. In the coming months I will also have stock available at the General Store in San Francisco and Douglas + Bec in New Zealand. I have some travel plans coming up in May, and have been starting the process of a potential move to New York City next fall. In between all of that, I will just keep knitting every day.

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ALL Knitwear

3Sixteen details three of their uniquely talented clients in video In celebration of the unique individuals that wear 3Sixteen, the denim-focused label recently created a series of videos showing off their customers’ talents and hardworking lifestyles. The trio of intriguing mini-docs, all profiling people in their homebase of NYC and cleverly titled ” Singularities ,” follows the dedicated coffee roasters at The Coffee Foundry, the skilled tattoo artists at Invisible Ink and the laid-back drummer Jahphet Landis. Directed by Kellen Dengler , the vignettes capture each of their subjects without ever mentioning 3Sixteen. This subtle brand-building project, much like their clothing, keeps it about the product not the name. We had the pleasure of getting to know just how the clothing company works when we collaborated with Andrew Chen and the 3Sixteen team late last year on a series of ties made from locally-sourced wool in Manhattan’s Garment District. Like everything the brand produces, the attention to detail and commitment to craft really shines in each of the four styles, with a simple label hand-sewn on the back. Dengler and the team are still searching for the fourth subject for the Singularities series. If you think your talents deserve some airtime, submit your work using one of their various online platforms for the project before 1 April 2011. To get your hands on one of our remaining collaborative ties, check them out in our online shop , where they sell for $80 each.

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Singularities

What America wants doesn’t interest Obama or stand a chance of becoming policy.

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The old Obama in new clothing

A leading Scottish fashion retailer warns the start of this year looks “very tough” for the clothing sector.

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Retail boss in inflation warning

Italian police says a note found stuck to the clothing of the man hurt after a parcel blew up at the Chilean embassy in Rome claimed responsibility on behalf of an Italian anarchist group.

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Anarchists ‘behind Rome parcel blasts’

Indie design powerhouses join forces for a new shop in L.A.’s furniture marketplace H.D. Buttercup As a one-stop furnishings marketplace, H.D. Buttercup’s enormous Culver City showroom filled with furnishings, art, rugs, bedding and accessories leaves most interiors junkies wanting for little. Last Friday saw the launch of the one thing the complex might be missing with a new 3,700 square-foot section bringing together the indie fashion of Apartment 3 and designers from the gift fair Unique LA . We checked in with Sonja Rasula, who founded Unique in 2008, and Kristin Knauff of Apartment 3 while they were setting up their H.D. Buttercup digs. Originally founded in 2003 as a boutique on La Brea, Apartment 3 has developed into a full-service fashion production company. Unique LA, one of the biggest shows for independent crafts in the country, features wares made by area designers and encourages the consumption of local products. Together at H.D. Buttercup, the two brands have created a forum to shop for children’s and baby products, clothing, art, accessories, edibles, gifts and more. In store, Rasula is proud to offer designs by Sub_urban riot , Chemline , 28 Squares , Eva Franco , sugarhigh + Lovestoned , Detroit Sprinkles , Maiden Voyage , Misha Lulu , Rock Socks and others. We spotted the hand-woven scarves by Loomlab that interpret Braille, computer circuits, and QR coding into the pattern and color palette. The Original Record Wallets fashion leather and nylon into billfolds sporting images of Prince, The Clash or astronauts. Apartment 3 collections span denim, bowties, vintage clothing and footwear, including exclusive pieces from Smoke & Mirrors that hang on one of the industrial metal racks. Both companies plan to showcase many of their favorite designers in a carefully-curated collection of merchandise. Photos by Justin Sullivan

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Unique LA

Charles Smith and John Perrone sat quietly together in U.S. District Court on Monday, each 18, pale and slender in powder-blue pants and smocks that looked like hospital scrubs. Authorities, worried about chemical contamination, had confiscated their clothing after arresting them Saturday on…

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Two students denied bail in suspected GU drug-lab case

The charms of Coastal Maine embodied in a local label’s rustic flagship shop Now that we’re fully in Fall’s grip, it seemed like a fitting time to check out the rugged gear sold at Rogues Gallery ‘s rustic flagship shop in Portland, ME. Tucked away on a cobblestone alley that runs parallel to two of the busiest streets in the Old Port area, the tiny brick storefront is marked only by a pair of ancient-looking wooden signs, making it perfectly easy to miss. Historically reserved for lobster-trinket-seeking tourists, stores like Rogues Gallery, along with an outcropping of excellent restaurants and local breweries, are giving the district a much-needed reinvention. Once inside, we found exactly what we were looking for—staples like worn in tees, plaid button downs, navy sweaters and rugged leather belts compliment a range of outdoor gear, crisp jeans and a surprising variety of sneakers, boat shoes and boots. The nautical theme is ever-present, but refreshingly different than the shops that surround Rogues Gallery. Metal anchor belt buckles and bracelets, antique model ships and buoys, dark plaids and wool sweaters, all set against the dark wood beams and brick walls, perfectly evoke the convergence of the ocean and the woods that defines coastal Maine. While browsing and snapping pictures, a collection of bottles caught our eyes. Last year, Rogues Gallery collaborated with Delaware’s Dogfish Head Brewery to produce Squall IPA—a robust, strong beer that “brings together the hard-worn New England port town perspective of Rogues Gallery and the artisinal brew-mastery of Dogfish Head.” Luckily for us, the shopkeepers recommended Novare Res , a biergarten right around the corner that still had some left.

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Rogues Gallery

Jun Takahashi’s latest collection of monotone looks and Godzilla themes Jun Takahashi’s subtly clever line Undercover (along with his collaborations ) rarely disappoints. From looks that satisfy my current preference for monotone dressing, like a khaki barn jacket paired with khakis, to striped backpacks, his Spring/Summer 2011 has plenty to covet. (We’ll take the turquoise raincoat or army green v-neck sweatshirt too please.) But beyond the exaggerated ’80s silhouettes of narrow pants-and-oversize shirts, the look book is a great cultural artifact in and of itself. With overt Godzilla references, the Japanese designer set the shoot in a miniaturized cityscape—complete with taxis and tiny people at the model’s feet. The images come across as a riff on the popularity of tilt-shift photography, achieving the effect by much less sophisticated means. Suggesting people lost in a bizarre version of the everyday world (Takahashi has said they’re meant to evoke a comic book strip), they provide the perfect backdrop for the designer’s inventive take on traditional clothes.

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Undercover Spring/Summer 2011: Underman

Magnetized lingerie makes getting undressed a snap Ripping off clothes in a fit of passion always sounds hot—until you find your expensive, “somebody’s-going-to-see-these” underwear torn to unsalvageable shreds. To keep the heat up without sacrificing silk and lace, former costume designer and the Parisian mastermind behind Lingerie Dement Laetitia Schlumberger created rip-off bras, panties, bustiers, and ensembles perfect for getting busy in a hurry. Tiny, almost invisible magnets hold the pieces in place, holding tight enough to ensure that there won’t be any accidental panty-dropping in the office. But when the moment arrives, the well-placed connectors snap apart in one swift tear. Made of seductive fabrics in delicate, feminine designs, the pieces have all the allure of French lingerie. Bras run between €70 and 90, panties between €50 and 60, and the garments are available online at Jollia , as well as at a handful of stores in the U.S. and France . Illustration and story via My Little Paris

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Lingerie Dement

Portland, OR outerwear company designs classic hunting and camping styles for the big city Clothing designer Erik Prowell originally named his outerwear company La Merde. “We wanted a name that was fancy, and yet…wasn’t. Then Nordstrom refused to carry the line because of the name,” he said when we recently visited his Portland, OR studio. After a moment, he reflected, “If there hadn’t been a recession, we probably would’ve kept it.” Now known as Bridge & Burn , Prowell’s sleek, yet warm wool coats and waxed cotton jackets are suitable for both city-dwellers and hikers alike. Bridge & Burn provides a solution to that perennial Portland quandary—where to find a decent-looking rain jacket. Prowell grew up in Bend, Oregon and was inspired by his father’s and grandfather’s camping and hunting gear. “I loved to wear my father’s Woolrich and Filson jackets and my grandfather’s old military uniforms from WWII. It’s great to see the resurgence of all the heritage brands. At the same time, I spend most of my time in the city and don’t feel a need to dress up like an outdoorsman,” Prowell said. Prowell has no background in the fashion industry. His schooling was in computer science, and his introduction to the business came through an avenue that most of us can relate to—making funny T-shirts with a college friend. That project, with Josh Hindson, eventually became No Star , which still bills itself as “A Funny T-Shirt Company.” After a good friend gave the pair a crash course in apparel design, they formed La Merde. But when managing their combined projects became too complicated (Prowell also runs a photography-based T-shirt business called Oh, Snap! ) the two agreed to part ways and companies. The Boise-based Hindson handles No Star, while Prowell decided to take Bridge & Burn in a different direction. “In my mind, La Merde was a little flashier. Bridge & Burn represents my passion for clean, classic and functional design,” said the multi-talented entrepreneur, who also created the branding, shot all the photography, designed their print materials, and programmed the website. For the Fall ’10 season, he branched out from outerwear into button-ups, and Spring ’11 will see shorts for men and dresses for women. Prowell’s clean, laid-back live/work studio and apartment, near bustling Burnside Street, embodies his holistic approach to life and design. The bedroom, lofted above the work and studio areas, lends privacy, while tall windows let plenty of light and air into the vaulted space. Despite an apparently frenetic work schedule, Prowell remains unassuming, relaxed—and astonishingly tall. “I made a couple of jackets custom-fitted for me, and then decided to get rid of them,” he said, referring to a recent sample sale. “They were XXXL, so I didn’t think they were going to sell. But both did! Just the right people walked in.” Prowell’s success in a downtime economy is due to a distinctive vision, a determined work ethic, and maybe just a little bit of luck. Bridge & Burn sells online , and across the country in stores such as Mini Minimarket in Brooklyn, NY; Creatures in Austin, TX; and Molte Cose in San Francisco, CA. For more updates on future products, check Bridge & Burn’s blog .

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Bridge & Burn

Utah natives’ debut collection introduces their own twist to classic outerwear If you’ve ever wondered what fashion critics mean exactly when they say clothes have “energy,” the new menswear label Highland from a trio of Utah-raised family friends might give you some idea. Drawing on their shared outdoorsy past, designer Lizzie Owens explains they not only turned to Arcteryx, seventies Patagonia and their dads’ closets but that “it involved ransacking my garage. I looked at a lot of backpacks and sleeping bags and tents—actual equipment.” The resulting debut collection (just hitting stores like Assembly , Steven Alan and No. 44 ) shows hints of such a resourceful process—climbing rope will be a trademark stand-in for pull-cords and emergency blankets feature prominently—without getting too weighed down by all the clever details. (See detail shots here .) While the light touch may seem unexpected from a designer best known for her work in costumes (she’s known for outfitting MGMT, The Killers, Chairlift and others), her skillful blending of influences suggests Owens intimately knows both sides of how clothes can obscure, protect and express the wearer’s personality. Of course formal training at RISD and years at TSE designing knitwear might have something to do with it; Highland at its core is what happens when artistic interpretation meets technical capabilities. This balance between construction and inspiration not only helps keep the clothes functional and minimalist, but lends a playfulness rarely seen in menswear. Blue (inspired by ’80s skiwear), red (“something I felt guys weren’t afraid of”) and mustard (“I’m obsessed with it. It’s so beautiful.”) punctuate an otherwise mostly black and grey palette and “pop on the inside is “for guys, like a little secret.” A boxier cut to shirting plays on an ’80s silhouette that’s recently been making a comeback. But simple plaids and checks in Japanese fabrics, cotton and wool neatly put a spin on cliched lumberjack references for a fresh look. Drop-crotch sweats in coveted loopwheeler fabric (made in Japan using an intensive process) are another example of Owens’ knack for integrating technical details with modern silhouettes. And waxwear pants with reinforced legs reference Carhartt’s classic carpenter pants, but with one key difference—the loop for a hammer is actually a non-functional piece of climbing rope. Check the Highland site for a complete list of stores or just head to Bastille to find Highland online. All images except for top photo by James Ryang

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Highland Fall/Winter 2010

Four tweaked takes on menswear from New York Fashion Week by Camille Hunt Steadily emerging from the shadows of their flashier female counterparts, some of our favorite menswear collections that hit runways last week in New York were an array of impeccably-tailored ensembles, each continuing to probe different spins on mens dress codes—what fashion editors call “directional.” From Siki Im’s modern Arabian look to a literally criminal interpretation of Americana by N.Hoolywood, the collections profiled below stand out for conceptual and innovative designs, while remaining wearable (depending on just how futuristic you dress). Pictured above (from left to right): Bespoken, General Idea, N.Hoolywood, Siki Im. Bespoken While you wouldn’t be wrong for bristling at the name, the latest collection from brothers James, Liam and Sam Fayed successfully blends their sartorial experience (their father Ali Al-Fayed owns the British suit company Turnbull & Asser) with modern elements for Bespoken . Suits, trench coats and double-breasted cardigans come expertly tailored, yet have a slightly disheveled look they describe as “Saville Row meets rock ‘n’ roll”—i.e. it’s a wardrobe for aspiring lil’ moguls, befitting of the founders themselves. A series of shirts, ties and pocket squares were also made in collaboration with their family’s iconic brand. General Idea General Idea designer Bemsuk Choi’s fourth New York Fashion Week collection was all about “the journey back to the familiar,” which in his hands looks like a vision of future ’80s nostalgia. Crisp basics preceded modern silhouettes in a color palate that progressed from all-white to pops of bright red, brushstroke graffiti print and multicolored paint splashes on jackets, pants and shorts, with materials ranging from cotton and tencel to linen and even polyester. N. Hoolywood “Police Picture,” Japan-born Daisuke Obana’s appropriately-named spring collection for N.Hoolywood , took cues from the American convicts of the 1930s with shirts, jackets and hats in thin and thick stripes, gingham and printed denim. The buzzed-about presentation had attendees peer through glass windows where street-casted models appeared in a jailhouse-style lineup. Siki Im Siki Im was an architect before shifting to fashion and working under both Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang. His latest xenophopia-inspired collection channels an urban sheik vibe, with knee-length linen tunics, pants with dropped crotches and caps made with washed and dyed silks to resemble desert headdresses.

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The Directionals