Utah natives’ debut collection introduces their own twist to classic outerwear If you’ve ever wondered what fashion critics mean exactly when they say clothes have “energy,” the new menswear label Highland from a trio of Utah-raised family friends might give you some idea. Drawing on their shared outdoorsy past, designer Lizzie Owens explains they not only turned to Arcteryx, seventies Patagonia and their dads’ closets but that “it involved ransacking my garage. I looked at a lot of backpacks and sleeping bags and tents—actual equipment.” The resulting debut collection (just hitting stores like Assembly , Steven Alan and No. 44 ) shows hints of such a resourceful process—climbing rope will be a trademark stand-in for pull-cords and emergency blankets feature prominently—without getting too weighed down by all the clever details. (See detail shots here .) While the light touch may seem unexpected from a designer best known for her work in costumes (she’s known for outfitting MGMT, The Killers, Chairlift and others), her skillful blending of influences suggests Owens intimately knows both sides of how clothes can obscure, protect and express the wearer’s personality. Of course formal training at RISD and years at TSE designing knitwear might have something to do with it; Highland at its core is what happens when artistic interpretation meets technical capabilities. This balance between construction and inspiration not only helps keep the clothes functional and minimalist, but lends a playfulness rarely seen in menswear. Blue (inspired by ’80s skiwear), red (“something I felt guys weren’t afraid of”) and mustard (“I’m obsessed with it. It’s so beautiful.”) punctuate an otherwise mostly black and grey palette and “pop on the inside is “for guys, like a little secret.” A boxier cut to shirting plays on an ’80s silhouette that’s recently been making a comeback. But simple plaids and checks in Japanese fabrics, cotton and wool neatly put a spin on cliched lumberjack references for a fresh look. Drop-crotch sweats in coveted loopwheeler fabric (made in Japan using an intensive process) are another example of Owens’ knack for integrating technical details with modern silhouettes. And waxwear pants with reinforced legs reference Carhartt’s classic carpenter pants, but with one key difference—the loop for a hammer is actually a non-functional piece of climbing rope. Check the Highland site for a complete list of stores or just head to Bastille to find Highland online. All images except for top photo by James Ryang

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Highland Fall/Winter 2010

Four tweaked takes on menswear from New York Fashion Week by Camille Hunt Steadily emerging from the shadows of their flashier female counterparts, some of our favorite menswear collections that hit runways last week in New York were an array of impeccably-tailored ensembles, each continuing to probe different spins on mens dress codes—what fashion editors call “directional.” From Siki Im’s modern Arabian look to a literally criminal interpretation of Americana by N.Hoolywood, the collections profiled below stand out for conceptual and innovative designs, while remaining wearable (depending on just how futuristic you dress). Pictured above (from left to right): Bespoken, General Idea, N.Hoolywood, Siki Im. Bespoken While you wouldn’t be wrong for bristling at the name, the latest collection from brothers James, Liam and Sam Fayed successfully blends their sartorial experience (their father Ali Al-Fayed owns the British suit company Turnbull & Asser) with modern elements for Bespoken . Suits, trench coats and double-breasted cardigans come expertly tailored, yet have a slightly disheveled look they describe as “Saville Row meets rock ‘n’ roll”—i.e. it’s a wardrobe for aspiring lil’ moguls, befitting of the founders themselves. A series of shirts, ties and pocket squares were also made in collaboration with their family’s iconic brand. General Idea General Idea designer Bemsuk Choi’s fourth New York Fashion Week collection was all about “the journey back to the familiar,” which in his hands looks like a vision of future ’80s nostalgia. Crisp basics preceded modern silhouettes in a color palate that progressed from all-white to pops of bright red, brushstroke graffiti print and multicolored paint splashes on jackets, pants and shorts, with materials ranging from cotton and tencel to linen and even polyester. N. Hoolywood “Police Picture,” Japan-born Daisuke Obana’s appropriately-named spring collection for N.Hoolywood , took cues from the American convicts of the 1930s with shirts, jackets and hats in thin and thick stripes, gingham and printed denim. The buzzed-about presentation had attendees peer through glass windows where street-casted models appeared in a jailhouse-style lineup. Siki Im Siki Im was an architect before shifting to fashion and working under both Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang. His latest xenophopia-inspired collection channels an urban sheik vibe, with knee-length linen tunics, pants with dropped crotches and caps made with washed and dyed silks to resemble desert headdresses.

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The Directionals

Dancehall tribute tees from a new London label From the play on the Guess logo to the cartoon-style illustrations of dancehall stars by Daniel David Freeman, the debut line from the new t-shirt label Ranks hits all the right ’90s pop culture marks. “Born out of an urge to create garments that we wanted to wear, but simply weren’t available,” these first three tees imagine idealized tour shirts of favorite reggae artists. New releases every 10 weeks will follow, pick them up for

The web’s boldest new retailer resurrects a defunct men’s label NYC’s dearly departed men’s label Yoko Devereaux returns this fall, bringing with it a “dark and clever smirk.” The capsule collection created for Gilt Man includes signature pieces—like its oft-imitated fleece blazer—as well as new designs that also mix refined tailoring with unexpected fabrics and edgier silhouettes. While the recession forced Yoko Deveraux to come to a grinding halt in 2009 after eight years in business, designer Andy Salzer explains that “as painful as it was at the time,” the break from the grueling production schedule gave him the chance to “actually step back and get some long overdue perspective,” as well as seize opportunities he couldn’t have previously considered. With Yoko Deveraux already on their list of potential collaborators before the label closed, Gilt Man met with Salzer to brainstorm a relaunch. Gilt Man PR director Jenny Landry explains part of the allure is that, “it’s only available on Gilt Man, which is the unique offering that our guys shop the site for.” For Salzer, the partnership provided new creative freedom, but he kept the classic Yoko Devereaux man at heart of the collection. “I can’t imagine fans of the brand wanting it to be entirely a new direction,” explains Salzer. “Instead, it’s important to me that the new items compliment the existing designs and reflect an evolution.” Yoko Devereaux’s capsule collection for Gilt Man will be available 20 September 2010 exclusively online . Also on Cool Hunting: Yoko Devereaux Store

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Yoko Devereaux x Gilt Man

London’s latest retail space for the well-dressed male by Barnaby Slater Flawlessly merging a unique interior aesthetic with an eclectic menswear collection, Hostem is what the red-blooded gentlemen of East London have been waiting for. Owner James Brown cut the ribbon three months ago, yearning for “a space in which I could support the brands I really believed in.” Once inside this emporium of reclaimed antiquity, James’ ethos shapes your entire retail experience, bringing together an inventive mix of luxe streetwear and exclusive handmade tailoring from unfathomably talented designers such as Casely Hayford , Visvim , Dr Romanelli , Ann Demeulemeester and Damir Doma . Hostem houses two main rooms realized by celebrated interior design duo Jamesplumb , who engineered each space to appeal to the different requirements of a modern man’s wardrobe. The first attends to casual desires with snazzy sneakers tempting from their concrete plinths, while classic cottons and comfy cashmeres hang from bespoke, hand-bent metal rails. Room two concentrates on the niche, with hand-painted hessian wall panels and a more visionary array of clothing, allowing shoppers to lose themselves in the luxury of every tiny detail— from the cut of a Geoffrey B. Small trouser to the feel of the re-claimed church pew you perch on to decide whether you can justify an acquisition from the impressive jewelry and fragrance selections too. More than just another East London menswear boutique, Hostem is a visceral experience where exceptional, unrivaled collections meet wondrous hand-crafted design, leaving you feeling like you’ve discovered something that no-one else knows about. Best of all—you can wear that feeling home.

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Hostem

A minimalist graphic tee brand celebrates their second year with a limited-edition box set Just two short years ago Burlington, Vermont resident Jeff Sheldon founded Ugmonk with a straightforward mission to produce high-quality products with simple, fresh designs. What started as a small side project—a way to marry his passion for typography and t-shirt design—quickly grew to much more than that. Thousands of shirts later, he recently decided to leave his traditional “day job” and do Ugmonk full-time. The current Ugmonk collection consists of around 25 different t-shirts and hoodies with lots of new designs being added in the coming months. To celebrate the two-year mark, Sheldon just released a special Limited Edition 2nd Anniversary Collector’s Set . Each includes a two-color discharge print on a charcoal gray tee, a numbered wooden coin, and Ugmonk collector’s card, all packed in a custom wooden box. Only 200 of these sets will ever be made so grab yours for $50 at Ugmonk’s online shop while they’re still available.

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Ugmonk

G-Star heralds their glory days with a new collection speaking to their denim roots Celebrating the craftsmanship, functionality and intricate details that catapulted G-Star to denim fame long before hip-hop celebs began sporting their jeans, the brand has taken it back to their 1989 roots with their new collection, Raw Essentials. Hitting stores this Friday, 13 August 2010, the collection includes key pieces like boiled wool cardigans and leather jackets but remains chiefly focused on selvedge denim. With deconstructed accents—like abrasion marks and hand-painted rivets— the jeans have an overall worn-in feel, while details like hand-sewn stitching between fabric panels reveal themselves only on closer inspection. “By mixing vintage influences with a modern, big-city street style there are no limits to what the G-Star design team can create,” said G-Star’s Collection Stylist Remco de Nijs. Part of G-Star’s popularity revolves around its Arc cut jeans, a concept they introduced years ago that integrates a slight curvature at the knees for a super casual appearance. Building on that, the Raw Essentials collection keeps it laid back with low-slung crotches and a straight leg fit instead of the pervasive skinny leg. Shot by Anton Corbijn, the face of G-Star’s Autumn/Winter 2010 and Raw Essentials collections is 19-year-old chess champion Magnus Carlson. To celebrate the season’s launch, G-Star is assembling a three-member team of first-rate international chess champions for its RAW World Chess Challenge on 10 September 2010 in NYC to play against Carlson, with the public’s input.

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Raw Essentials